Waterfall Rappelling

Waterfall rappelling is a guided day trip into the jungle outside San Ignacio: a few miles of hiking and scrambling up a creek, through a chain of clear pools and small waterfalls, ending with a roped descent down the face of the biggest one. You wear a helmet and a life vest, you get completely wet, and the guides handle the ropes. It's the kind of trip that wouldn't be allowed to exist in the United States, which is part of the appeal.

The way in

The hike is about three and a half miles, up and over cliffs. Some of it is extremely exposed by American standards: you climb steep sections on little ropes, and in a few spots there's nothing to grab and you just go. One woman on the tour slipped off the trail and was caught by a tree. Everyone kept going. Belizeans take a lot more risk than we're used to, on the trail and on the road. On the way in the guides offered us termites to eat, and we accepted.

The waterfalls

Then the waterfalls start. First a tiny one, maybe 18 inches. Behind it, a crystal-clear blue pool with vines hanging down, which we swam across. Then a 12- to 15-foot waterfall, a slot canyon, a 20-foot waterfall, and behind that a warm lazy river you swim through to reach the big one. The final rappel is about 35 feet straight down the face of the waterfall. Cassie went first. John went second, and by his own account did not do better than she did.

Afterward

The weather was easier than we'd braced for. Hot and humid on paper, but in the shade it felt fine, and the bugs were almost nonexistent. John had twisted an ankle a couple of days earlier and had to be careful on the rocks and stream crossings, but it didn't matter. It was possibly the most beautiful place either of us has been. We got back completely spent, skipped going out, and spent the evening in the pool at Villa Cayo.